Archives of The Cold Blooded News

The Newsletter of the Colorado Herpetological Society

Volume 33, Number 4;   April, 2006

Veiled Chameleons

by Eric Adrignola

Before the first veiled chameleons were imported, captive-bred chameleons were a rarity. In just a few years, however, the number of captive born and bred C. calyptratus exceeded the number of imported animals. Thousands of veiled chameleons are produced every year in the United States alone. They have become the most popular pet chameleons. Famous for their intense coloration and unusually large helmet, or casque, veiled chameleons have permeated the pet industry. However, it is not due to their desirability alone that they have succeeded in captivity.

Chamaeleo calyptratus, better known as the veiled, or Yemen chameleon, is a large, colorful lizard. The common name, "veiled" chameleon comes from the scientific name, calyptratus. This name is derived from their distinctive casque. The tall hoodlike crest on their heads resembles a calyptra, or veil, which is a structure on some mosses and lichens. They are native to Saudi Arabia and Yemen. Despite corning from a region that is one of the most arid on earth, they are not purely desert creatures. C. calyptratus are most often found in tropi.cal oases. These areas often have higher humidity and more plant life than the surrounding desert and are subject to extremes in temperature and humidity. Daytime temperatures can be well over 100 degrees. Nighttime temperatures can drop to below freezing on occasion. This drastic difference causes dew to form on plants, providing a source of moisture for the chameleons. C. calyptratus can tolerate a wide range of climates and conditions. Veiled chameleons are very tough, adaptable animals. They are quite different from many other species of chameleons, which only have a narrow tolerance for temperature and humidity. It is because of this adaptability that veiled chameleons are better able to thrive in captivity compared to most other chameleon species.

Captive Housing
The enclosure should be a minimum of 2'x2'x3' tall, and contain live plants and dry branches for basking spots. It should be as high as possible, especially for adult males. When smaller cages are used, they should be raised several feet above the ground. For juveniles, fake plants are fine. However, as they mature, veiled chameleons will begin to eat vegetation, live or not. They will choke on fake plants, so it's best to remove them after the lizard reaches six months of age. Lighting should consist of an ultraviolet light and a basking light. The basking light should be a 60W bulb for juveniles and a 75-100W bulb for adults. Fluorescent bulbs provide UVA and UVB light. UVA is found in all full-spectrum bulbs, while UVB is only found in adequate quantities in specially made reptile bulbs. One of each is recommended. The basking lamp should maintain the proper temperature. A basking temperature in the high 90's is ideal. Lower portions of the cage should be in the 80's to allow the chameleon to thermoregulate. Take care to ensure the chameleon cannot get close enough to the bulb to burn itself.

They do not know when they are burning, so it's up to you to make sure they can't. Thermal burns are the #1 injury to captive-bred chameleons. Do not use any form of heating at night. As long as temperatures stay above 50 degrees, there is no reason to heat the cage at night. Temperature drops are beneficial to a chameleon's metabolism.

Nutrition
Veiled chameleons will eat almost any bug you can find. The gray cricket is the most common feeder insect available, and will make up a good portion of the chameleon's diet in captivity. Other commercially available insects are superworms, silkworms, mealworms, waxworms, butterworms, hornworms, flies, and roaches. Variety is important. Chameleons need to consume a number of different insects to stay healthy. It is also important to feed your insects a good diet (called "gut loading") prior to feeding them to the chameleons.

Veiled chameleons are always hungry. They'll make you think they're about to die of starvation by the way they act towards food. Veileds do not need to eat nearly as much as they will eat -- kind of like us. Chronic overeating leads to shortened lifespans in both sexes. Overfed females will produce massive clutches of eggs. They usually do not live more than two years. Overfed males will have fat sticking out of the back and sides of their head. This means there is even more fat tissue on their internal organs. Fatty liver disease kills quite a few otherwise healthy animals. Male veileds have lived over 10 years in captivity, although six to eight years is more common. Overfed males seldom live more than three years. Females can live from four to six years, but heavy breeding shortens their lives.

Calcium supplementation is necessary for chameleons kept indoors. Without sunlight, they need an artificial source of D3. Artificial UVB lighting is helpfut but not enough by itself. A calcium/ mineral supplementation with D3 is needed to grow strong bones. Young veileds should get supplemented every day, adults need it every week or so. Providing vitamin/ mineral supplementation is simple: Simply coat feeder insects with the powder prior to being fed to the chameleon.

Vegetation is an important part of the diet of adult veiled chameleons. In the wild, they will eat plants to get them through lean times. In captivity, they will eat a variety of fruits and vegetables. Feeding plant matter helps control obesity. Hibiscus blossoms, red grapes, strawberries and dandelion flowers are a favorite, though they'll eat almost anything, including their furnishings!

Humidity and Hydration
Veiled chameleons do not require as much water or as high humiility as other chameleons. As previously mentioned, they are not true desert animals. Humidity levels in nature are generally fairly moderate, especially at night. In the wild veiled chameleons endure very dry conditions, but this is not their preferred situation. High levels of humidity and lack of ventilation will lead to skin infections and respiratory problems. An easy way to maintain proper levels of humidity is to keep the live plants in the cage well watered. Daily misting will also help keep the humidity level high enough. Occasional heavy misting or showers are important, as it allows the chameleon to clean out its eyes.

Water should be provided in a drip system. This is especially easy when live plants are used. A small plastic deli cup is poked with a needle or thumbtack. The container is filled with water and placed so that it drips onto the plants in the cage. The chameleon will drink from the leaves and any excess water is taken up by the plant. You'll never have to water the plant. Juveniles should be watered every day by heavy misting. Adults should get drip-watered every day or every other day depending on the temperature and humidity. If it's been exceptionally hot and dry, they'll need more water.

Eric Adrignola is a graduate of North Carolina State University with a Bachelor's Degree in Zoology. He has over 10 years of experience with chameleons.