Archives of The Cold Blooded News

The Newsletter of the Colorado Herpetological Society

Volume 31, Number 9;   September, 2004

Leopard Gecko Care and Keeping - Eublepharis macularius

by Sarah Staples

Size and Longevity:
An average adult leopard gecko is 8 to 10 inches total length. Hatchlings have a total length ranging from 3.25 - 3.5 inches and grow to adult size in approximately one and a half years. This species can live up to 20 years or more in captivity.

Captive Care:
Leopard geckos are an excellent beginner's lizard for a number of reasons: docile nature, simple insect feeding habits, moderate adult size, and availability as captive domestically bred stock. Captive-bred reptiles are less likely to have heavy parasite loads than wild-caught. A fecal examination by a veterinarian often shows parasites, which can be simply treated with a prescribed oral medication. Elimination/reduction of parasite loads will enhance your gecko's health and allow them to gain weight. Problems secondary to parasitic infestation can be life threatening.

Temperament:
Young leopard geckos are highly sensitive to potential threats. They will often try to escape when an attempt is made to pick them up. Occasionally these tiny little creatures will make a harsh rasping sound, raise their tail, and stand stiff legged with mouths agape in a threat display. Despite this little act, these animals are very easy to handle. Gentle handling on a regular basis will help your gecko to trust you and be more calm, docile, and relaxed as an adult. Be careful handling the tail- they can drop their tail when threatened. A new tail will grow back, but it will not be as long as the original and is very stressful for them. "Tail work", or gentle stroking of the tail while handling will lessen the chances of the lizard dropping it. Leopard geckos are nocturnal; they will be most active in the evening.

Diet:
Crickets, meal worms, superworms, kingworms, wax worms, earthworms, and other insects. Adults can be fed an occasional pinky mouse. Food size should be no larger in diameter than the space between the gecko's eyes. Insects should be dusted with calcium and a multi-vitamin at least once per week. Do not vitamin-dust at every feeding, hypervitaminosis can occur. Do not feed "outside" bugs, as they may have been exposed to poisonous pesticides. Insects should be gut-loaded prior to feeding. By offering a healthy diet of grains and fresh fruits and vegetables to the insects, you are passing on the nutrition to your gecko.

Temperature:
Heat should be offered on a gradient, so the gecko can self-regulate it's body temperature. The hot side of the tank should be 83° to 90°F during the day. The cool side of the tank should be 69° to 74°F during the day. The entire tank can drop to 65°F at night with no negative effects. Heat can be provided via under tank heaters; heat tape, or basking lamps. Leopard geckos do not require special UV lighting.

Habitat:
Leopard geckos inhabit dry environments including rocky deserts, grasslands, and flat tablelands. One adult leopard gecko can be housed in a 10-15 gallon terrarium. A breeding group of two females and one male can be housed in a 20-gallon long terrarium. They are not arboreal and will not benefit from tall cages, though they will climb on "furniture" in their habitat. Hide boxes are vital to your gecko's health, and should be offered on both the hot and cool sides of your tank. A moist hide box is recommended for both proper shedding and egg laying, simply made of a plastic tub with a lizard-sized hole in the side, filled with damp moss. Substrate can be as simple as newspaper, or a more natural-looking choice of hardened sphagnum peat moss. Astroturf is a simple and easy choice for substrate. Commercial products such as lizard litter or any small and loose substrate (i.e. bark, walnut shells, or sand) carry the risk of impaction, which can be deadly. Your leopard gecko will choose one spot to defecate and always go there, you can place a paper towel in that spot to make clean up fast and easy. A shallow water dish should be available at all times. A small lick-dish of calcium powder or scraped cuttlebone is recommended.

Breeding:
Leopard Geckos are one of the easiest species of lizard to breed in captivity. These animals need only be in good health to breed. Some breeders recommend a winter cooling period and a reduction in the day length, but this is not necessary to induce mating. Leopard geckos are sexually mature as early as 16 months of age, some may breed even younger. However, it is recommended that the geckos be at least 18 months old and plump (heavier than 50 grams) before breeding. Females typically lay several clutches of two eggs, which they fertilize with sperm from an earlier mating. A female can store sperm from one mating encounter for up to a year, laying clutches of fertile eggs repeatedly throughout the season. Eggs should be removed and placed in an incubator. The temperature at which they were incubated determines the sex of the hatchlings. Females are produced at temperatures between 80° and 85°F, while males are produced at higher incubation temperatures ranging between 89° and 92°F. Mixed sexes are produced at temperatures between 82° and 86°F.