Archives of The Cold Blooded News

The Newsletter of the Colorado Herpetological Society

Volume 30, Number 6;   June, 2003

Herp of the Month

Compiled by: Tiffany A. Holmes

Common Name:

Eastern Indigo Snake

Scientific Name:

Drymarchin corias couperi

Size:

~ 8 feet

Range:

Southeast US

Lifespan:

~15 years

Habitat:

Florida - tortoise burrows; den sites also include root mounds at the base of trees and shrubs, piles of sticks and/or dirt, and man-made debris piles

Temperament:

Gentle, except around feeding time.

Captive Care:

Require large amounts of space. A small (~ 2'x2') portion of the cage is can be set up for dark, cool retreat, similar to a burrow. Juvenile indigo snakes can live in a standard sweater box with a hide their first year. Newspaper is the easiest substrate to maintain because of the snake's semi-liquid fecal matter. Cypress mulch also works well, and keeps humidity up in the enclosure. Lighting requirements include full spectrum lighting for light, and a red flood lamp for heat.

Temperature:

Daytime summer temperatures should gradiate from the low to mid 70's F to low to mid 80's in the warm area. Nighttime temps are around 70-75 F. Temperatures should not reach the mid-eighties for more than a few hours a day and the snake should always have access to a "cool" spot.

Food:

Hatchlings should not be fed until after first shed. Neonate indigo snakes tend to prefer cold-blooded prey like frogs, fish and other baby snakes. Offer live goldfish and thawed frozen pinkie mice scented with goldfish. The snakes will adapt to eating the scented pinkies, and eventually frozen thawed pinkies.

For adults and juveniles, smaller meals twice a week are ideal, as indigos prefer smaller food items. Adults can be fed a small to medium rat or 3-5 newborn chicks twice weekly.

Breeding:

Reach sexual maturity at around 6' long (3-5 years of age). In September, decrease daylight hours and temperatures, as well as the amount of food offered. Offer a small meal once about every 10 to 14 days for males, and weekly for females. Males will often stop eating as mating begins. Watch the weather in central Florida, and decrease the photoperiods to simulate the natural reduction, and begin opening the windows at night.

By mid to late October, the daylight hours are decreased to only around 10 hours a day, and nighttime drops are down to 60 degrees F. By November, The nighttime drops are going way down to 55 degrees F. The heat lamps should come on at mid-day and only for a few hours.

Once these conditions are in effect, wait until a female goes through a shed cycle. Males may be allowed to combat under supervision. The "winner" is awarded the freshly shed female. If the female is ready, copulation will begin and last for up to 12 hours. The female is then retired back to her cage, fed, and allowed to rest for several days before again introducing her to a male. Continue pairing the snakes until the females indicate they are no longer receptive. Tail thrashing and male rejection usually indicates that she is gravid. Caution: snakes should not be paired for more than 24 hours. NEVER leave an obviously non-receptive female in with a male.

Ideal incubation temperature is 78 deg. F. At this temperature, the eggs will hatch in 93-110 days. Moist vermiculite (1:1 weight with water) or damp towels can be used as substrate. Neonates are 16"- 22" at hatching and weigh between 50 and 85 grams.

References:

Alessandrini, Dean. "Greatest American Serpent." Reptiles Magazine.