From the Archives of

The Colorado Herpetological Society

Miscellaneous Articles

The Captive Care of Desert Lizards of the Southwestern U.S.A.

by Scott Patterson

I will group the lizards into three categories, for beginners, intermediate and advanced hobbyists.

Side Blotched Lizards. (Uta stansburiana)

Good captives that reach a length of 5-6 inches [13-15 cm]. Males are much more colorful than females. I usually find these in areas of low vegetation basking on small boulders. When given ultraviolet light and heat, they readily eat any insect small enough for them to consume. I've never seen a Side Blotched Lizard attempt to bite.

Long Tailed Brush Lizards. (Urosaurus graciosus)

A bit longer and narrower than Side Blotched Lizards and not as colorful. They are usually found in sandy creosote areas. I've seen a fair amount southeast of Indio, California. They eat a variety of insects in captivity, and I haven't heard of anyone ever being bitten by these lizards.

Banded Geckos. (Coleonyx variegatus)

Very popular nocturnal lizards that can reach six inches. They eat well in captivity as long as their cage is warm in the evening. My Banded Geckos drink more often than most of my other desert lizards. These lizards tame down quickly, however I don't believe I will ever get used to the chirping sound they make when they are captured or surprised.

Desert Iguanas. (Dipsosaurus dorsalis)

Usually found in sandy, creosote areas where vegetation is sparse. However, I have also seen them on rocky foothills. An interesting sidebar is that while Desert Iguanas and Leopard Lizards can be found in the same areas, at my two favorite "Leopard hunting spots," Desert Iguanas are conspicuously absent. This is possibly due to predation, I don't know. My Dipsosaurus have reached up to 15 inches [38 cm] long and I've noticed that the Desert Iguanas I've caught at the northern end of their range have dark red to gray stripes running lengthwise down their body, while specimens in the southern areas have more of a red-orange striping. In captivity, they readily consume leafy greens and seem to prefer endive and bok choy. Many, especially when young, will also eat insects. Desert Iguanas adjust well to captivity, but should be given a warm, spacious cage, with ultraviolet light and sunlight whenever possible. When raising babies and juveniles, natural sunlight is very important.

Desert Spiny Lizards. (Sceloporus magister)

Including Desert Spinys in my "beginners" section has surprised many of my colleagues. I will agree that Desert Spinys are difficult to catch and bite when handled, but if their requirements are met, they are a low-maintenance reptile. Desert Spiny males, depending on the subspecies, can exhibit beautiful shades of purple, orange and yellow on their backs, and metallic blue and green on their bellies. Desert Spinys eat readily in captivity. Their diet can include pinkie mice, smaller lizards and a variety of insects. They are also fairly easy to breed, with eggs slightly smaller than Collared Lizard eggs and an incubation time a bit longer. If handling is not important, and their physiological needs are met, Desert Spiny Lizards are an easy lizard to keep in captivity, like much of the Sceloporus family.

Whiptails. (Cnemidophorus spp.)

Light, heat, a spacious cage and more water than most desert lizards are essential for the success of Cnemidophorus in captivity. In the wild, Whiptails range from difficult to catch (Western Whiptails - C. tigris) to fairly easy to catch (New Mexico Whiptails - C. neomexicanus). The young of many subspecies have bright blue tails and I've seen adult Western Whiptails in the lower desert of California (29 Palms and south) with tails that are almost an iridescent black. The longest Whiptails I've personally kept are the Western Whiptails which I've seen up to 14 inches [35½ cm] long. I understand the Great Spotted Whiptails (C. burti) of southern Arizona gets larger. Most Whiptails are slim, active lizards that will stalk any moving insect. Along with insects, Western Whiptails will eat very small lizards and will attempt pinkie mice. Some Whiptails have interesting habits when they are very hungry -- they will eat their prey whole, however, as they fill up, they will tear the insect to pieces and eat it piece by piece. I've also noticed that when in a "community" cage, a Whiptail will sometimes kill all the insects dropped in the cage before other lizards see them. They will then return and eat the insects at their leisure. Whiptails can bite and aren't easily handled because of their nervous nature, however if all of their physiological needs are taken care of, they will do well in captivity.

Baja Blue Banded Rock Lizards. (Petrosaurus thalassinus)

A rather large lizard, reaching 14 inches [35½ cm], that somewhat resembles an overgrown Side Blotched Lizard. I've read in a couple of publications that these lizards eat vegetation and some insects. This concept was echoed by a couple zoo associates I met at last year's International Herpetological Symposium. However, my "Blues" are very fond of pinkie mice and will eat smaller lizards when given the opportunity. Baja Blue Rock Lizards are nervous lizards and can inflict a painful bite. Even the Petrosaurus I've had captive for four and five years aren't eager to be handled. They aren't usually a good community animal and even the females will fight among themselves. The females are pretty lizards with "pool chalk" blue heads and blue-gray bodies with splashes of yellow and orange. The male's coloring can border on the incredible, ranging from a pretty blue to an almost iridescent turquoise in the sunshine. Interestingly, these lizards are adept at eating and mating while hanging upside down from the lid of their cage. Baja Blues are easily with bred with clutches of eggs numbering approximately a dozen. My hatchlings appear on or about the 60 day mark after incubating at 82° to 85°F. Being such nervous lizards, that sometimes make a fairly loud throat popping sound, they may not eat readily.

Fringe Toed Lizards. (Uma spp.)

Unlike the Zebratailed Lizards (Callisaurus draconoides) and Earless Lizards (Cophosaurus texanus), these beautiful sand lizards have never been difficult captives for me. While they are a stockier lizard than Callisaurus, it doesn't mean they are any slower. They readily eat grasshoppers, waxworms, crickets and flying insects. They should be given a sand substrate to bury in; when they don't have this substrate, they appear nervous and confused. Give Fringe Toed Lizards plenty of ultraviolet light and heat (don't overdo) and a spacious cage to roam, and you will more than likely be successful. My Umas also become tolerant of handling.

Leopard Lizards. (Gambelia wislizenii)

These relatively large lizards are usually found in flat creosote strewn areas. However, I've seen them in Utah and California sunning themselves on boulders. Leopard Lizards can reach 16 inches [40½ cm] long, with the females usually being the largest. However, I spotted a 15 inch [38 cm] male east of 29 Palms. Males have enlarged postanals, females do not. During the breeding season, adult females have beautiful red or orange bars down their sides, sometimes going all the way up to and including the lizard's head and down through the bottom side of the tail. Leopard eggs are larger than Collared Lizard eggs, but not as big as the Chuckwalla's. Babies hatch as early as 55 days, or as late as 71 days, depending on their temperature. Baby Leopards emerge with a bright spotting of red-orange along with their normal color. Their red-orange color is similar if not the same as their breeding color, and won't completely vanish until the next spring. Leopards eat most insects, and will readily eat smaller lizards, including their own kind, and pinkie mice. It's been my experience that wild caught females adapt to captivity better than males, but that could just be my luck. Captive bred and wild caught babies adjust to captivity very well. They usually become tame with gentle handling and can make an interesting and charming captive. Leopard Lizards have powerful jaws and can give a painful bite. While they are truly common in very few places, I usually see them on the "benches" of dirt roads looking into the sun. Last summer I had a female Leopard Lizard impregnated by an Eastern Collared Lizard, but that's another story!

Chuckwallas. (Sauromalus obesus)

Once considered a very tough captive, their difficulty seems to be overrated. Given a large cage, warm temperature, and ultraviolet light, most Chuckwallas do rather well in captivity. Chuckwallas are bulky, pear-shaped lizards with rough skin. They can reach 16 inches [40½ cm] or better. I've heard "Island" Chucks get much larger. It's been my experience that young Chucks, especially young males, will tame down so well with handling that they can become spoiled. When feeding Chucks, remember to stay away from the lettuce group. Vitamin rich greens, such as kale, collard greens, mustard greens, broccoli, escarole, endive, bok choy and dandelions are all much better for Sauromalus. Each has its own appetite, and many like slow moving insects such as waxworms and mealworms. Sometimes you get the Chuckwalla who is the exception. I had a male who loved grasshoppers and I have a female who eats anole lizards. Yes, my female Chuckwalla eats anoles! Chuckwallas are usually found on boulder strewn hillsides, and are widely known for the difficulty of removing them from crevices. Males will have a black and/or orange coloration, while females are usually yellow-brown-gray. My females have laid 5-9 eggs at a time, but like fellow breeder and Southwest Herp Society member Jim Winn, I have been totally frustrated in my attempts to hatch them. However, Paul McIntosh, another good friend and desert lizard breeder, did hatch a couple last year. Finally, use caution, as an adult Chuckwalla can give a very painful bite. Also, most wild caught Chucks have mites and/or ticks, as do other heavy scaled lizards, such as Desert Spinys. Consequently, you don't want to introduce them into your collection until after you have eliminated this problem.

Collared Lizards. (Crotaphytus spp.)

These lizards are readily available at pet shops (which usually take horrible care of them), and most subspecies are common throughout the west and southwest. Collared Lizards are usually found in rocky areas, sunning themselves on boulders. The Eastern (C. collaris) and Desert Black Collared Lizards (C. bicinctores) are the most common types found in the pet trade. The Eastern Collareds, with a greenish hue, are the bulkiest of the Collared Lizards. The Desert Black and Baja Collared's (C. vestigium) are the slimmest, and seem to be the biggest lizard eaters of the group. The Yellowheaded Collared's (C. collaris auriceps), while a pretty blue-green, are among the smallest of the Collared's. I've never seen an auriceps longer than twelve inches. Same with the "melon" colored Sonoran Collared's (C. collaris nebrius) of Southwest Arizona. In the wild, Collared Lizards run swiftly on their hind legs, and when first introduced to captivity, are very nervous. Large, older males may never tame down or eat in captivity; however some do. Females, juveniles, and most males eventually tame down and become good captives if their needs are met. Their needs include ultraviolet light, heat, a large cage, and a variety of food. Collareds have their own individual appetites, some prefer pinkie mice, others enjoy smaller lizards, still other like insects best -- grasshoppers, moths, jumbo mealworms, crickets, etc. Some Collared Lizards will readily eat greens, dandelions, and sliced carrots. Water should be offered at least twice a week.

Collared Lizards are excellent hibernators and are easily bred and crossbred. Babies hatch between 42 and 60 days, depending on temperature and subspecies. Captive bred Collareds are much more relaxed than their wild caught cousins. I have a pair of Crotaphytus dickersonae that are still very nervous after a year. They are my breeding challenge for 1996.

Zebra Tailed and Greater Earless Lizards. (Callisaurus draconides and Cophosaurus texanus)

These are some of the fastest lizards in North America. With a slim build and colorful underbelly, they are attractive medium sized lizards. They are very nervous and getting them to eat regularly in captivity can be quite a chore. A large cage at least three feet long and plenty wide, kept very warm, with ultraviolet light and a sand substrate are a must. They can be given a variety of insects: grasshoppers, flies, moths and crickets. Waxworms seem to be a favorite. I've heard they will also eat very small lizards. Even if you can provide all the necessary requirements for these nervous individuals, be sure you have the time to spend with them -- these lizards can be quite a challenge.

Horned Lizards. (Phrynosoma spp.)

Not as difficult as once thought, Horned Lizards can reach up to 7 inches [18 cm] long and are usually short, chubby lizards. They have a variety of defenses: blending in with their surroundings, puffing up, biting, and finally spraying blood from their eyes. While these lizards don't appear outwardly nervous, many are hesitant to eat. I have seen Horned Lizards eat a variety of insects. However, without a steady diet of ants, they seem to go downhill after a while. Many is the time I have watched helplessly while ants crawled out of the cage as my Horned Lizard sat nearby disinterested. I began having success with Horned Lizards using a large cage, kept warm, with ultraviolet light, and no cagemates. The only problem was where to get ants during the colder months of the year.

Although my lizards are kept indoors, I give them sunshine at every opportunity. I use a mesh cage and always have a shaded area so as not to overheat my lizards.

I always welcome written, oral, and telephone communication about Desert Lizards. Contact me through the Colorado Herp Society or the Southwest Herp Society.