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From the Archives ofThe Colorado Herpetological SocietyMiscellaneous Articles |
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The CHS Care Sheets Snakes Lizards Miscellaneous Articles Archived Reprints from Other Newsletters The Cold Blooded News The CBN Archives CHS Home Page |
Keeping Crocodiliansby Mark TovarOriginally published in the Cold Blooded News, Vol.24, No.10, October 1997.Contents: Introduction Knowing the species Housing Diet Temperature and Lighting Temperament and Handling References Introduction: Crocodilians have been kept for centuries. In the past these amazing animals had a potent religious purpose. In some ancient Egyptian cults dating back to 1800 B.C., crocodiles were believed to be relatives of a crocodile headed god called "Sebek," and were kept in shrines for worship. In the Indo-Pacific, some relations between humans and crocodilians served a darker purpose. On the island of Timor, the Rajah of Kupang insisted on sacrificing a virgin girl each year. Thankfully, sacrifices like these lost their appeal in our modern societies. But these practices happened in many cultures, helping give crocodilians the bad reputation they still retain. Today, crocodilians are being kept in increasing numbers. Not for religious reasons, but for conservation, education, and commercial purposes. In the 1960's, when it became clear that a number of species were in serious decline, attempts at breeding and rearing crocodilians was not only seen as a means to ensure the survival of the animals, but the survival of the skin trade as well, which had brought several species to the verge of extinction. There are 23 species of crocodilians generally recognized, with several of these species considered to be in danger of extinction in its wild environment. One species of crocodilian which is not currently in danger is the Common Caiman (Caiman crocodilus crocodilus), also known as the Spectacled Caiman due to the bony ridges surrounding and extending in front of the eyes that give the so called "spectacle" appearance. This caiman, and a few of it's subspecies are popular and easy to obtain in the pet trade. Some of the biggest problems with choosing the cute little hatchling as a pet is that it becomes an unpredictable animal which often obtains an unpleasant disposition, and with proper care, can grow to 8' in length. (A few individuals have been recorded over 10'). This, coupled with the amount of dedication needed to care for them since it is possible in the right conditions for a crocodilian to outlive its keeper, make the caiman, or any crocodilian, an unwise choice as a pet for most enthusiasts. I do feel however, that any captive animal should be properly cared for. Knowing the species: Knowing the species, and the size your captive can become is important. Often, the Common Caiman, and the Brown Caiman (Caiman crocodilus fuscus) which is slightly smaller, growing to a maximum length of 6', can be confused. It can be very difficult to tell the difference since a distinctive feature of this species is it apparent ability to change color, especially if it becomes cold. Known as metachrosis, it results from an expansion of black pigment cells causing the southerly races to look like the Brown Caiman, which is a dusky shade of olive brown. Purchasing from reputable breeder/importers that sell crocodilians by their scientific names may be the best way to know which species you are getting. This can also open doors to other crocodilian species completely. The Dwarf Caiman (Paleosuchus palpebrosus) is the smallest of the New World crocodilians, with males reaching a maximum length of 5 ft. Females are smaller, not exceeding 4 ft overall. Dwarf Caimans are also known to be more timid, making them preferable to the larger species. Regardless of which species you choose, it is most important to do all the research and preparation you can before you bring the animal home. Housing: Housing crocodilians is easy enough when they are hatchlings, but they grow rapidly as juveniles, about a foot per year under ideal conditions, so starting with the largest enclosure with a securable lid is of utmost importance. Extremely large aquariums, sealed refrigerator liners, koi ponds, and galvanized water troughs will give your pet a good start. Most crocodilians are not primarily aquatic, with some possible exceptions like the Gharial; I feel they do require as much dry land as they do water. Using bricks to support large flat quarry stones above the water line can accommodate this need. Cleanliness of the enclosure, and water quality is also extremely important. Keeping the cage as simple as possible will make it much easier to clean, and will keep your captive healthier. A high quality filter that keeps the water in constant motion to prevent stagnant conditions, along with frequent water changes (2 to 3 times per week) is the best way to ensure clean water. This is important for them as they use it to wash food down their gullets. It is a common misconception that the size of the crocodilian can be altered by the size of its environment. This is simply not true. Size can however be altered by food intake, but this makes for an unhealthy animal which will more than likely die within a few years. Diet: In captivity, variety is the key. Small captives will take crickets, waxworms, mealworms, goldfish, and pinkies. As they become larger, whole mice, chicks, squid, fresh chopped or whole trout, rats, rabbits, and whole plucked chickens are all good, depending on the size of the animal. Whole animals such as mice, rats, and rabbits are nutritionally balanced, and should be the main part of their diet. Live or fresh fish should make up only a small portion of their diet. It is prudent to supplement meals with added calcium to prevent metabolic bone disease, a chronic calcium deficiency which is common among crocodilians. Commercial "Alligator Chow" is also a well balanced food, although whole animals are probably appreciated. Hatchlings should be fed 3 times per week, and as they become larger, once or twice per week is sufficient. Crocodilians that will not feed are likely sick or being maintained at an improper temperature. Temperature and Lighting: Some species of crocodilians are more susceptible to low temperatures than others. But they are all thermo-regulatory experts, so following some general guidelines should produce a healthy animal. Water temperature should be maintained about 77°F at all times. Combination filter/heaters work well for this, but can be very expensive. A powerful submersible heater placed inside a brick with the pre-drilled holes will work well also. Remember that these are very powerful animals, and one strong lash from their tail can damage an electric heater. Crocodilians also need a place to bask in the "dry area." This can be accomplished using a 75 to 100 watt incandescent bulb and reflector kept on 12 to 14 hours per day reaching 85 to 90°F, dropping to a low of 75°F at night. Other heat sources may be needed depending on the size of the enclosure. Some type of temperature monitor should be used to take the guess work out of maintaining these parameters. 24 hour timers are also beneficial to keep steady day and night cycles. These are inexpensive and can be found in most department stores. Crocodilians do not need the full spectrum lighting that a lot of reptiles do, but I feel that greater overall health can be accomplished when their natural environment is reproduced as best as possible. Temperament and Handling: Crocodiles are generally the most aggressive, followed by the Caimans, and then the Alligators and Gharials. There are many exceptions to this, and all crocodilians can be unpredictable, so taking the proper safety measures no matter which species you have is advised. Caution should be taken when handling crocodilians. The bite can inflict serious injury. The teeth can penetrate deep within muscle, and the force with which the teeth slice through establishes favorable conditions for anaerobic bacterial infections, which can be resistant to antibiotics. Prompt medical attention should be given even from a relatively small bite, which could take months to heal. Caution must also be taken when trying to so called "tame" your pet. Prolonged struggles can prove fatal to the animal due to the concentration of lactic acid in the blood which will cause death from acidosis, especially in larger crocodilians. They are among the most intelligent reptiles, and can recognize color, scents, and sounds. So regularly being seen, talking to, and proper handling without causing unneeded stress, will all aid in getting the animal "used to you" in its captive environment. There is little or no controversy on keeping crocodilians. They make excellent exhibition animals, but DO NOT make good pets. One must have a genuine interest in the animal involved, and realize that these wonderful creatures can quickly outgrow their accommodations and become a liability in the home. References: Alderton, David, 1991. Crocodiles & Alligators of the World, Blandford Publishing, an imprint of Cassel plc, London, UK. Alderton, David. A Petkeepers Guide to Reptiles & Amphibians, A Salamander Book, Tetra Press, Blacksburg, VA 24060. Thomas Boyer, DVM, Caiman Care Sheet. Crocodilian sites on the WWW. Very special thanks to Roark Ferguson for our many phone conversations. Roark is the former president and is a current board member of the Carolina Herpetological Society. He maintains the largest private collection of reptiles in South Carolina, keeping several species of crocodilians. Copyright © 1998 - 2006, Colorado Herpetological Society. All rights reserved. | ||||||
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