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The Captive Care of Leopard Lizards
(Gambelia wislizenii)

by Scott Patterson

Originally published in the Cold Blooded News, Vol.22, No.11, November 1995.
I have been raising and breeding desert lizards since 1985, and I have read that Chuckwallas and Horned Lizards are very difficult to keep in captivity. However, I have never had a problem with either one. Leopard Lizards have been described as voracious predators in captivity, but until 1992 I had little success with Gambelia wislizenii.

Leopard Lizards are rather large lizards that are found throughout the southwest, yet are truly common nowhere. On lizard viewing trips, I've encountered well over a dozen Collard Lizards (Crotaphytus collaris), Chuckwallas (Sauromalus obesus), and Desert Iguanas (Dipsosaurus dorsalis) in a single day, yet the most Leopards I've seen in one day is six. Leopard Lizards are wary, yet if approached slowly, you can get some remarkably close photos. Leopard Lizards are robust large-headed lizards that can reach a total length of 16 inches. I've personally worked with the Long-Nosed Leopard Lizard (G. w. wislizeni) of the California deserts and the Pale Leopard Lizard (G. w. punctata) from Utah. Their color can range from a silver-white to dark brown and sometimes encircled with white dots.

These stout lizards are usually found on sandy or hardpan ground with creosote or other scattered vegetation. They can also be found in rocky areas basking in the morning sun. I most often find Leopards in arroyos and alongside dirt roads.

Leopard Lizards are ambush predators. They position themselves under a creosote bush, motionless, blending into their surroundings, and then surprise their unsuspecting prey. Leopard Lizards are notorious lizard eaters, even making a meal of their own kind. My experience is that they are more fond of lizard prey than are Collared Lizards (Crotaphytus collaris). They have been known to choke to death trying to swallow lizards too large to eat. They will also eat pinkie mice and a variety of insects. Water will be readily taken on a weekly basis.

Leopard Lizards mate in May and June and eggs are laid shortly after. During the breeding season, females develop a rich salmon color down their sides and underneath their tail. The eggs are larger than Collared eggs, but smaller than the Chuckwalla's. I've had as many as 12 eggs laid by one female. Leopard hatchlings emerge around 60 days later, sometimes a bit sooner, and are between 4 and 5 inches long.

A pair of Leopard Lizards should be given a spacious cage, at least 3 feet long and 18 inches wide. In a smaller cage, they may rub their noses raw. Captive Leopard Lizards need ultraviolet light; natural sunlight is the most beneficial. However, a black light and/or a full spectrum bulb will suffice. The cage should have a hot spot 100° - 110°, a spotlight pointed at one side of the cage will work, and a cooler area of the cage at 75° - 80°. This way your lizards can regulate their own temperature. If your Leopard Lizards are dining on an insect diet, supplement the insects with calcium and vitamins. Caution should be used when handling Leopard Lizards as they can and will bite hard. Babies and juveniles will quickly tame down and make good captives.

There are not many compatible cagemates for Leopard Lizards as they can be ill-tempered hosts.

While I have never seen Collared Lizards regenerate their tails, I have seen Leopard Lizards with regenerated tails.

In summary, the key to successful captive care of Leopard Lizards is plenty of room, plenty of heat with a cool gradient and ultraviolet light.


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