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From the Archives ofThe Colorado Herpetological SocietyLizards |
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The CHS Care Sheets Snakes Lizards Miscellaneous Articles Archived Reprints from Other Newsletters The Cold Blooded News The CBN Archives CHS Home Page |
Inland Bearded Dragon
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Contents: | ||
| 1. General 2. Housing 3. Substrate |
4. Temperature 5. Lighting 6. Water |
7. Food 8. Handling 9. References |
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The inland or central bearded dragon (Pogona vitticeps) is rapidly becoming one of the most popular lizards in the pet trade. A moderate-sized lizard, attaining a maximum length of about 22 inches (half of which is tail), it has a melow dispostion and seems to enjoy interacting with humans. A native to south, central Australia (see range map at right) Pogona viticeps can be found in arid, rocky, semi-desert regions and arid open woodlands. They are diurnal (active during the day) and seem to fall asleep within minutes of the light going off in the evening. With proper care bearded dragons have lived for 10 years in captivity. Because of very restrictive wildlife export laws in Australia, all individuals available in the United States are captive bred from founder animals imported from Europe.
Housing:
Initially a relatively bare enclosure is preferred, either glass aquarium or large plastic enclosure. A screen cover is recommended, primarily to protect the lizard from children and / or other pets. Within the first year the dragon will grow to almost its full length, so while a 10 gallon aquarium may be suitable for a new hatchling, within 6 months or less the animal will require an enclosure 24 inches long (e.g., a 20 gallon long aquarium). As adults, a 50 gal tank (or larger) is preferable, especially if two or more animals are to be housed together. As adults bearded dragons love to climb branches and bask, be sure if several animals are housed in one large enclosure to provide multiple basking sites. They also benefit from having hiding spots. Females especially appreciate having a safe place to escape from the male's attentions during breeding season.
Substrate:
Substrate may be either a bare enclosure, paper toweling / newsprint, or sand (Play Sand, granitic or limestone sands).
Temperature:
As with most lizards a thermal gradient is required. At the "hot" end, basking temperatures of 95° - 105°F (34° - 41°C) are appropriate for hatchlings, with adults preferring 88° - 95°F (31° - 37°C). The cool end of the enclosure should be room temperature and at night can fall as low as 60°F (16°C). Temperatures can be achieved with a combination of either hot rock or under tank heat source under one half of tank and incandescent light over the basking site. Be careful to monitor temperatures carefully before placing the dragon in the enclosure. A 100 W light bulb will quickly "cook" a baby dragon in a 10-gallon tank. Be sure there is a "cool" end that the dragon can escape to if needed. If a hot rock is used, check its surface for hot spots and be sure to have a secure screen lid; babies can climb up the cord and escape. Red incandescent light or ceramic heaters are not recommended as daytime heat sources, only standard white incandescent bulbs. The lights should be on 12-14 hours, with the undertank heat source or hot rock left on 24 hours to provide a source of nighttime heat. Nighttime temperatures can fall to 60° -70°F (16° - 21°C).
Lighting:
In addition to the incandescent bulb used to provide heat and stimulate daytime activities, full spectrum (UVB) fluorescent bulbs should be placed on top of the tank, preferably within 12 inches of the dragons, with no glass or acrylic to impede UVB exposure. Although experiments are still in progress to determine the exact effect this has on growing lizards, it is believed that these bulbs play a part in synthesis of vitamin D3 and calcium absorption. Exposure to natural sunlight for several hours a day, with access to shade as needed, is a good alternative.
Water:
Water should always be provided in a shallow dish or bowl (jar lids work well for juveniles) that the lizard can see into and drink out of easily. Water should be changed daily and the bowl disinfected regularly. A daily misting seems to be beneficial, especially for hatchlings.
Food:
While dragons are primarily insect eaters, they benefit from a varied diet including dark, leafy greens (e.g., collard greens, kale, red-tipped leaf lettuce, mustard greens, hibiscus flowers) and finely chopped or grated vegetables. Appropriately-sized crickets (approximately 1/3 the size of the lizard's head, by width (width of prey = 1/3 width of lizards head) or by volume) make up the basis of their diet, with mealworms, wax worms and king mealworms (Zoophobas) providing variety for lizards older than one month. Be sure your feeder insects are themselves well fed. Subadult to adult dragons may even appreciate an occasional pinky mouse. Because of their rapid growth, food items should be supplemented with a calcium/vitamin mixture (e.g., four parts calcium carbonate (e.g., Rep-Cal) to one part reptile vitamin (Reptivite, Herptivite or Herpcare cricket dust). Supplementation usually takes the form of "dusting" food items with the powder immediately prior to feeding. If dragons are kept on sand, food items should either be introduced in a smooth-sided bowl, deep enough to keep the food items in, but shallow enough for the dragons to climb in and out, or the dragons can be placed in a separate container (e.g., plastic sweater box) for feeding.
The following is a suggested feeding schedule based on age:
- Under one month:
- Feed 2-3x/day; crickets (1 week old dusted 1x/day).
- One to four months:
- Feed 2x/day; ( 2 week old, dusted 1x/day), occasional mealworm or waxworms, salad every other day.
- Four months to mature:
- Feed 1-2x/day; crickets, mealworms, wax worms, pinky mice, Zophobas, salad every other day.
- Adult:
- Feed every 1-2 days; crickets (dust 2 feedings/week), Zophobas, pinky to fuzzy mice (once/week), veggies every other day.
Handling:
One of the attributes which makes bearded dragons such an appealing pet lizard, is that with minimal training, they will sit calmly for moderate periods in your hand or on your shoulder. Most adults will tolerate and even seem to enjoy being gently petted on the back or under the chin. Care must be taken with hatchlings though. They are fragile and frequently skittish. Care must be taken to avoid dropping them, as they back-up while you hold them. Excessive petting may be harmful to their skin. Handling should be minimal for the first two months, with gradual increases in holding (just supporting them in your hand) for the next two months. By six months they are hardy, and by one year are mature adults. If purchasing a bearded dragon for a child, an adult should always supervise handling of juvenile dragons (under 6 months). If the child is young or tends to be very rough, an adult may always need to be around when the dragon is handled, primarily for the safety of the dragon. Dragons are very mellow lizards, but if provoked they will exhibit an open-mouth threat display. If their display is ignored, a bite may ensue.
References:
de Vosjoli, Phillipe and Mailloux, Robert (1993) General Care and Maintenance of Bearded Dragons. Advanced Vivarium Systems, Inc. Lakeside, CA 92040.
de Vosjoli, Phillipe (1994) The Lizard Keepers Handbook. Advanced Vivarium Systems, Inc. Lakeside, CA 92040.
de Vosjoli, Philippe and Mailloux, Robert (1996) A simple system for raising juvenile bearded dragons (Pogona) indoors. The Vivarium 7: 42-43.
Kaplan, Melissa (1994) Dragons down under; inland bearded dragons [On-line] http://www.sonic.net/~melissk/bearded.html.
Swan, G. (1995) A Photographic Guide to Snakes and other Reptiles of Austrailia. Ralf Curtis Books, Sanibel Island, Florida.
Sprackland, Robert (1994) Australia's Bearded Dragons. Reptiles 1(6):44 -53.
Weis, Peter and Weis Phyllis (1994) Breeding Bearded Dragons. Reptiles 1(6):54-55.
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